SCUBA News 141

Back to Warmer Climes: Diving Sharm el-Sheikh, 2010

After weeks of further study and learning we returned to Sharm El-Sheikh intent on completing our PADI Advanced Open Water qualification. My buddy Graham and I set off for our check dive off Sharks Bay, which a couple of months later became famous for the shark attacks on snorkellers. We returned late afternoon to pre-book the further dives required for the course and additional pleasure dives to round off the trip. During the next day I started to feel quite poorly, hot and cold, giddy, sickness, by that evening we needed to visit the pharmacy for some local medication. The night seemed an endless stream of hallucinations brought on by the tablets and rising temperature and during the next five days I ate and drank very little and when it came time to take the first dives of the course I had to pull out, but Graham refused to go until I was better.

As the end of the holiday drew nearer it looked unlikely that I would get much better, but after a lot of mutual support from Graham, I called it 'dive buddy bullying', we headed off to the harbour. When we arrived it was a surprise to see that we would be travelling on the dive boat Macca, the same boat and crew that I had travelled with in September last year and with Graham in May this year. It was great to see everyone again, including Ramey, our instructor who we had worked with for our first qualifications back in May. As I was feeling very weak after several days with no food Ramey reassured me that if I didn't feel up to it, I was to give the signal and we could abort the dive. Interestingly as soon as we entered the water the idea of giving up never entered my mind again.

During the next two days we undertook six dives to sites located around Tiran Island that included navigation using compass and another using general underwater feature. One of the best dives was probably the shallowest, to the wreck of the Kormoran. Located north of Tiran Island, the twisted structure of this large container ship is only six to eight metres below the surface and is surrounded by prolific coral that has been stained by the ship's cargo of phosphorous. The torn metal provided an insight into the sheer power of the sea.

The fish identification dive made one really focus on fish of all sizes, shapes and colours, and the final drift dives involved some very strong currents, one minute one was gliding along with the current behind you, the next with a strong current in your face it was like hitting a wall of treacle. But the most amazing was the deep dive at Jackson Reef. During the pre-dive briefing Ramey explained that we would encounter strong cross currents, which could be hitting us from different directions at the same time and the aim was to get down below twenty five metres where it would be calmer. Graham and I would like to see the dive book that Ramey has been reading where it defines "calm"! Although it was just the opposite, it was really exciting, exhilarating, close to scary at times, but never calm. One of the bonuses was the very warm water, 29 oC at thirty metres, amazing; it was like diving in a bath. The highlight for us both, was seeing our first turtle close up, and of course getting Ramey's signature on our dive logs and the pass certification.

Interestingly, I never thought too much about feeling sick, but after six dives in two days, I was absolutely shattered. Hey, aren't the sun beds back at the hotel for sleeping on. As we arrived back at Aquarius Dive Centre it was handshakes and hugs from Anwar (aka Henry) and dive master and great guy Musty (this guy is so eager to please and he has a great smile).

Return to the Deep

Earlier this year my wife Pam and I returned to Egypt, unfortunately this time we left behind my dive buddy and brother-in-law Graham and sister Jayne who are our regular companions on our visits to Egypt. Graham was recovering from a hip replacement.

As we headed off to Sharks Bay for the check dive I commented to Rammy that the beaches were very quiet and he explained that the shark attacks together with the after-effects of the 'revolution' had decimated tourism. A few days later when we revisited the area to catch a boat to Tiran Island he explained that last year 44 boats used the harbour daily, and this year the numbers were down to single figures, in fact only 4 the day we were there. One could only feel sorry for every one of the honest and hardworking people involved in the diving industry in the area.

My fourth dive of the trip was the most memorable, a speed boat ride to the dive site named 'Million Hope', the wreckage of a 26,000 ton bulk carrier that is over 560 feet in length which sunk in June 1996 and is said to be the largest ship ever to be lost in the Red Sea. Lying in 24 metres of crystal clear blue water and sitting on a sandy bottom, some of the upper deck is still visible above the water. A massive hole in the hull provides the opportunity to swim inside the ship. Elsewhere the cargo holds are empty after a long salvage operation, but the space provides a haven for thousands of colourful fish of all shapes and sizes. Coral is starting to grow on the deck of the ship which picks up the sunlight shining from above, giving an effect of disco lights as the various colours are picked out. Rammy my dive buddy and guide from Aquarius Dive Centre has visited the wreck so often that the locals have renamed it Rammy's wreck. His knowledge of what lies inside the ship out of sight of many divers provided me with a growing confidence that intrigued me to see more.

Following Rammy down inside the dark rooms, one by one we travelled deeper until we got to the tool room and finally the engine room, but only with Rammy's torch were we able to see the workbench and huge metal tools, each one sitting in its holder as they did when the ship hit the reef and sunk 16 years ago. The more I saw the more I was fascinated, it was a truly remarkable experience, but a quick look at my gauges signified that I had used up my allotted amount of air, and it was time to start our ascent to the surface.

As soon as we got back to Aquarius, Musty - our good friend and Dive Master - was busy planning our next dives. As well as scuba diving we enjoy the long hot sunny days, great food, oh and the free booze that comes with the All Inclusive package. Another memorable moment was an evening visit to Naama Bay, the social capital of Sharm el Sheik. I know that some people say it's like a very hot Blackpool, but Pam and I don't think it's that bad, we like the atmosphere that's created by the hustle and bustle of the diverse community including bars, restaurants and shops. Whilst there we stopped off at the world famous Camel Bar, made famous by visiting scuba divers. It has two open air roof top bars, oh and a lift and wheelchair accessible toilet. I think the lift is predominantly a goods lift and the toilet, well it's just a toilet located in a large room. But hey, who's moaning, not me!

During our final days diving we travelled to Tiran Island on Macca. The crew, headed up by 'Speed' Aquarius's boat master is one of the friendliest, helpful but overall professional crews one could wish to meet.

Red Sea Revisited - Again

Together with my wife Pam, my sister Jayne and brother in law (and dive buddy) Graham we have just returned from Sharm el Sheikh, our first holiday since Graham's hip replacement. We had lots of sun, sea and scuba diving, well worth waiting for. A great break, good food, interesting beer in a fairly accessible hotel that is supplemented by staff that have a fantastic "can do" attitude. After a couple of days acclimatising to the scorching heat Graham and I signed in with Musty and his team at Aquarius Dive Centre that is conveniently located within our hotel complex.

The day after we completed our mandatory check dive, and a couple of days later we joined a group of ten other divers and headed off to Tiran Island where we dived Jackson, Woodhouse and Ras Gamila reefs. Although all three are drift dives at depths from twelve to thirty metres, each reef offered something slightly difference, with amazing coral of all shapes, sizes and colours, an abundance of brightly colourful fauna and fish of sizes ranging from a few centimetres to nearly two metres. We would recommend Aquarius as all of their dive boats have great crews who deliver high standards of safety and hospitality as well as serving up fantastic food, overall they make every days diving memorable.

For our last days diving we headed off early morning to the world famous Ras Mohamed National Park where we dived Shark & Yolanda and Jackfish Alley. With only four more divers on board plus two master diver/guides and a video cameraman it was a stark reminder that the resort is still suffering from the after-effects from the political uprising earlier this year, plus the shark attacks which resulted in the unfortunate death of a snorkeler, and the worldwide recession. But it did mean that we weren't rushed or short of space on the boat.

Our first dive of the day was Shark & Yolanda Reef which offers spectacular coral, bizarre fauna and a great selection of fish that included several huge moray eels, a couple of crocodile fish, several pairs of lion fish and our first ever sighting of a rare scorpion fish which is a magnificent pink, yellow and turquoise, plus a couple of huge turtles. One of the most unusual visual effects in the world is created by the hundreds of toilets, sinks and bath tubs that are scattered across the soft white sand around the wreck of the merchant ship Yolanda which sank in 1980 together with its cargo of porcelain toilet fittings. As we hovered over the wreck we spotted a row of toilets that had been strategically placed there by other divers, we couldn't resist a photo opportunity, and we later found out that Andy our video cameraman also captured the moment on video. Well worth watching, I will try to get it uploaded onto YouTube.

Our next and final dive of this trip took us to Jackfish Alley, which starts with a great cave dive. Once again we were treated to an array of coral, fauna and spectacular coloured fish of all shapes and sizes, plus another sighting of a turtle. As I looked down at my pressure gauge I tried hard to control my breathing, hoping against hope to stretch out the dive for just another couple of valuable minutes. I don't know if it's just me, but as I get to the end of the final dive of any holiday I feel a sense of sadness that it's over, but once back home I get a sense of anticipation that our next trip to Egypt won't be too far away. When we arrived back at Aquarius Musty confirmed that he and his English born wife are planning to visit the UK early next year, Graham and I have offered to take him diving at Capernwray Dive Centre. Interestingly he was very keen until we told them about the temperature!

In addition to the diving, we all had a great break, we returned with decent suntans and lots of memories, especially from our trips to Naama Bay and Soho Square and the several bars and restaurants we frequented throughout the holiday.

Hooked on Scuba

As you can see from the above, we are completely hooked on scuba diving, Sharm El Sheikh and the team at Aquarius Dive Centre, so much so that we have already booked for 11 nights in January, May and September next year.

Undertaking those try dives a few years ago was a milestone in my life, as a disabled person who has very limited movement in my limbs I have found a hobby that has enriched my life. My new found freedom I can experience once in the water is liberating, made even better by the many new friends we have met at the dive clubs, dive centres and crews of the dive boats. My ambition now is to encourage other disabled people to experience the thrill.

Going the Extra Mile – Scuba Challenge 2012

Following last years first successful Scuba Challenge, at the moment I am organising another fundraising event for the 25th February: 'Going the Extra Mile'. This year volunteers are scuba diving 66 lengths at a leisure centre in Warrington (in the North West of England). The funds raised will go towards the disability awareness exhibition that attracts visitors from across the UK and Europe. One of the activities available at the exhibition is a scuba pool, offering try dives for disabled people. We are looking for more divers to join us in the swim, or to donate via our justgiving link. If you are able to help or would like more details visit http://www.disabilityawarenessday.org.uk/.